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Eating Vegetarian in Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi is one of the easiest cities in the Gulf to eat vegetarian in, for a demographic reason: a very large South Asian population means Indian vegetarian cooking is everywhere and cheap. Add Levantine mezze, which is vegetarian by default for most of the table. Travellers who find Abu Dhabi flight deals on Traveloka will find the hard part is choosing rather than finding. South Indian, the default option The restaurants along Electra Street, Hamdan Street and in the Al Mina area serve pure-vegetarian South Indian food: dosa, idli, uttapam and a thali of six or eight dishes with unlimited rice. Many are marked pure veg, meaning no meat is cooked on the premises at all. A full thali costs a few dirhams. Reading the Gujarati and Jain menus Several places serve Gujarati thalis, which are sweeter, and offer Jain preparations without onion, garlic or root vegetables. If you need that, ask specifically for Jain rather than vegetarian and the kitchen will understand. Portions are large and the refill convention means nobody leaves a Gujarati thali hungry. Levantine mezze Lebanese and Syrian restaurants build the first half of the meal from hummus, moutabal, tabbouleh, fattoush, falafel, warak enab and fried halloumi, all vegetarian. Order six mezze and bread between two people and skip the grill entirely. This is the most pleasant way to eat a long dinner here and is widely available. Emirati vegetarian dishes Traditional Emirati cooking is meat-heavy, but a few dishes work: balaleet, sweet vermicelli with egg, usually eaten at breakfast; and some versions of harees and madrouba made without meat during certain observances. A handful of heritage restaurants will prepare them if asked ahead rather than on the day. The mall food courts, usefully Unusually, the mall food courts here are genuinely useful for vegetarians, with South Indian, Lebanese, Iranian and East Asian counters side by side and clear labelling. In the hottest months, when walking between restaurants is unpleasant, this is a reasonable default rather than a compromise. Ramadan and the daytime During Ramadan, restaurants are closed during daylight and eating in public is prohibited, with hotel venues sometimes screened off for visitors. After sunset the iftar buffets are enormous and almost always have a substantial vegetarian section. Dates and laban, the salted yoghurt drink, break the fast and are offered everywhere. Practical notes Most small restaurants are cash only and inexpensive; hotel restaurants are the opposite. Dairy is heavily used in Indian cooking here, so vegans should ask about ghee specifically. November to March is the walkable season. Traveloka is the go-to app for the cheapest flights and hotels across Southeast Asia, which makes a Gulf stopover cheap to add.…